History:
The
neighbourS
Written by Ignatius Tan
“Serumpun bak serai. Sesusun bak sirih.”
​The Malay proverb interpreted as “to look after our neighbours as if family” holds strong in many Malay communities around the world. Kampong Glam is proof that a multicultural Singapore did not only exist exclusively to modern-day Singapore. Even before Singapore called itself a nation, Kampong Glam was home to traders from different cultures, living together as neighbours, but treating each other as family.
The Sultan Mosque in Kampong Glam PHOTO: Nakanishi Soi
1900. Bugis, Arabs, Javanese and people of other cultures settled in Kampong Glam. Near the Sultan Gate was an area reserved for masons and blacksmiths. Easily recognisable by their dirt-stained white singlet and baggy utility pants carrying tools, the trade was dominated by Javanese craftsmen. The masons chiselled on tombstones, crafted stone mills and hammered on slabs of rock. The reputation of the street’s masterful blacksmiths gave it the name pakti koi, Hokkien for “blacksmith street”.
Old Chung Cheng School in Kampong Glam.
SOURCE: Mothership
Nearby, boys wearing a white collared shirt with their hair put back to a nice comb over had just been released by the school bell. They are students enrolling in one of the earliest known education institutions run by the Chinese community, Chong Cheng school. Even though the school was known to have the most capable teachers, Chong Cheng school charged the most affordable school fees. The monthly school fee was only $3, with most of its students living in Kampong Glam. Chong Cheng School produced many bright students and alumni, including Singapore’s fifth president, Mr Ong Teng Cheong, graduating from the school in the 1950s.
Just around the corner, fascinating shophouses line the streets, as if hiding a well-kept secret to themselves. Owned by the Arabs, these stores houses some of the most exotic materials and merchandises from far away lands. Myrrh, a type of resin used as perfume or medicine from Greece. Agarwood, obtained for its aromatic scent from Oman.
The prized Arabian and Hadrami honey, said to be among the
most expensive honey in the
world. The Arabs seemed to have
anything under the sun in stock, willing to share the product to locals and travellers for the right price.
Shops under the Shop Houses in Kampong Glam
PHOTO: Nakanishi Shoi
Besides those owned by the Arabs, the Indians were tenants of a hand full of shophouses too. The aroma of spices and herbs travelled down the lanes of Kampong Glam, attracting more and more customers to the shop. Nasi Briyani, a rice-based dish, accompanied by meat, vegetables and gravy or curry was a popular choice among locals. Roti Maryam, a flatbread dipped in curry is another popular choice for those looking for a quick bite. These flavourful dishes made for a delectable meal, even for those who were not able to afford it. The Indian restaurant owners often gave out unsold food to the needy at the end of each night. Community kitchens, where people of different cultures come together to prepare a meal for the less fortunate were also arranged by these Indian kitchens.
The Sultan Mosque in Kampong Glam
PHOTO: Nakanishi Shoi
People of different ethnicity, background and profession, united as neighbours, friends and countrymen.
​
1941. Talks of the imminent world war among the people of Singapore. All the neighbours of Kampong Glam sought protection under the roof of the Sultan Mosque. Women and children huddled together, deep within the walls of the Mosque. Men stood atop the mosque’s minarets, using it as an observation post to look over the skies for enemy aircraft. Though majority of the people in Kampong Glam were of different backgrounds, they fended for each other as if family.
“Serumpun bak serai. Sesusun bak sirih.”
​
​
“To look after our neighbours as if family.”
The world war had its devastating effects on Singapore. In Kampong Glam, shophouses were shut down. Schools had to discontinue. The energetic streets once bustling with life was nothing but a ghost town.
2019. After more than 70 years since the world war, Kampong Glam is as vibrant as ever. At each and every step of the way, it is obvious that area is not just home for the Malay community, but has pockets of Indonesian, Indian, Chinese and even Western influences in its streets.
A new generation of Kampong Glam “neighbours” now live and breath new life into the area. Visitors can expect charming stores, selling beautiful trinkets and items, small museums and art galleries, showcasing Singapore’s rich history and even restaurants big or small, serving up a wide plethora of delicacies.
The nightlife at Haji Lane, Kampong Glam. PHOTO: Nakanishi Shoi
While the area has diversified and changed over the years, there is still a strong sense of community in Kampong Glam. Artists gather to colour the back alleys of Muscat street, restaurant owners constantly outdo each other in a friendly competition of attracting more customers along Haji Lane, generations old and new merge to create new exciting products. Kampong Glam now draw an increasingly young and diverse group of visitors to its streets, refreshing the way Singaporeans picture “Kampong Glam”.
